The Last Blog Post

Over the last three years, we have taken a journey together.

It started In the beginning [link], will end with this last blog post, but oh! there is so much in-between.

I wish I could sum up the best things about my service in just a few sentences, but alas. I cannot. There is so much I want to say about being a PCV, but I have to believe that it has already been written within these pages.

For anyone out there who stumbles upon this blog, I hope the information contained here will help you decide if Peace Corps is right for you (see Frequently Asked Questions [link], the PC Experience [link], PC Life [link] or PC Process [link]. I hope the stories, anecdotes, and soap-box rantings give you some sense of what it means to serve in such a distinguished institution. I have loved at least 78% of every minute of being a PCV. It is hard to imagine the rest of my life as an RPCV, but I know I can do it. Besides, I really don't have a choice. They delete my email from the group listserv this week.

For all those inquisitive folks out there who may be wondering what I will be doing with the rest of my life, I hope to post tiny (one liner) updates from time-to-time. These won't be regular, but I hope to show the impact Peace Corps has had on my life (at least for the next year).

Anyway, before I succumb to the tears threatening to fall any minute now, I just want to say:


Hörmətcilər (Azərbaycanlılar),

Sizinlə xidmət etməyə imkan üçün ən lap daha çox sağ olun. Mənim xidmətim lap əla (zorsa) idi. İndi ən yaxşı Azərbaycanlı dostlarm almışam və sizə görə mənim sevgi gücüm çoxalır. Sağ olun demirəm. Helelik deyirəm.

Oh yeah. And I am not on Facebook. You are going to have to email me [link] if you want to say hi.

How to Bucket Bath an Afro

You will need

1 metal bucket
1 plastic bowl
2 large washing tubs
An "eh" towel

The Process 

1. Bring a metal bucket full of water to a boil. Performing an entire bucket bath (i.e. washing yourself too) is not recommended. You will need to boil a lot of water and you will get cold and annoyed quickly.
2. While waiting for the water to boil, separate your hair into 4 sections.
3. Remove water from stove and carry to your hamam. Be careful not to douse yourself in boiling hot water. That is not fun and it makes a HUGE mess.
4. Fill a large washing tub half-way full of cold water. Pour in half the bucket. Check the temperature (remembering your head is way more sensitive than your hand) and adjust as necessary.
5. Kneel over another washing tub. A rolled-up towel placed under your knees helps.
6. Unbind one section of hair and using a medium-sized plastic mixing bowl (plastic is necessary), wet the section, using your fingers to help the process along. Repeat with each section, re-binding each section afterwards.
7. If the water is too cold, scoop out some hot water and pour into the washing tub. The plastic bowl will not shatter with the temperature change.
8. Unbind a section and work in shampoo or whatever you are using (I have been using a mixture of Castile soap and baking soda - great for dandruff). Re-bind.
9. Rinse using previously described rinsing method.
10. Unbind a section and work in conditioner if using. Repeat rinsing method (re-filling water bucket as necessary and dumping used water as necessary). Make sure to pay special attention to the hair line as getting water to these parts can be difficult.

Good luck. My back always hurts afterwards.

Holiday Recycling

After three years, many of my holiday stories seem to be repeating themselves. I wrote about my first Novruz [link], and then my second [link], and then another one [link]...

I would say my readers are probably looking for something new and exciting, but, just like America, holidays in Azerbaijan are pretty consistent. Novruz ushers in spring, Ramadan is a month-long test of my self-control, and Qurban signals the 15 kilos of persimmons that I will be gifted.

Although the holidays are set on repeat, my experiences are not. My first year was spent trying to get a hold on what was going on around me. My second, I overindulged in sweets and revelry. This year, I brought it down a notch and have enjoyed the reduced speed and family time which comes with holidays in Az.

Now, I feel more comfortable about local holiday traditions and crashing friends' houses for free food. I understand what is expected of me and even most of the classic holiday phrases tossed out at one and all. Still, I miss my own American holidays and look forward to celebrating St. Patrick's Day decked in green and Labor Day racing bathtubs. Holidays are always the hardest when you are away from home, but not so bad when you have pork kebabs.

Pictures are from the St. George's Day [link] celebration in Qax.

AY DA!

So freaking unbelievable! Just a few hours ago, on Jessica's final trek around town, we discovered a local market - where there are aisles, a cash register, and the pork cupeth [link] runneth over. GGEEEZZZZ.

3 years in Azerbaijan and I finally find a place that would have offered a constant bacon supply. So. Bloody. Predictable.

The Calm Before the Storm

So, a few days ago, I was hanging out in my house, watching my cinnamon rolls rise when I thought to myself: I really should get to job searching. Eh. I will do that tomorrow.

I woke up the next day, less than excited to start my Internet searching when BAM! (more like bam..., but I am using artistic license to make this story more exciting), I looked out my window to see snow blanketing the trees and icicles hanging from my laundry.

I also realized I had no power.

So, I shrugged my shoulders and worked on my DOS (Description of Service - a comprehensive document detailing everything I have done during the last three years...yeah. I was bored).

I then decided that for the remaining 30% of my computer battery life, I would read an epub version of Percy Jackson and the Titan's Curse [link].

I was confident the power would come back on.

Later that day, I finished The Emperor of Scent [link] (interesting book) and started The Life of Pi [link].

I decided to make Thai pumpkin soup and a grilled cheese sandwich.

The power did not return.

I decided the last 25% of my iPhone battery life should be spent listening to the audiobook version of The Scarlet Letter [link] (free on iTunes!).

I wrote three letters by candlelight.

I went to bed at 9:45 p.m.

I woke up at 7:15 a.m. Still, no power.

I took a shower with just my Nalgene solar lantern [link] to light my way.

I put on every pair of long underwear I own and then jeans, two sweaters, two pairs of socks, and my super slippers [link].

I boiled water and washed dishes.

I visited my favorite vegetable seller in the bazar and brought her throat lozenges (she is sick).

I went looking for electricity to charge my phone (futile attempt).

I returned home and by 4:50 p.m., the lights were flickering on and off. I unplugged my refrigerator.

I melted the ends of candles so they would stand upright in a dish.

My host brother called. We went and got tea. He showed me pictures of his most recent trip to the U.S.

I returned home to semi-constant light (8:30 p.m.).

I woke up at 7:45 a.m. and the lights were on! I wonder if that milk is still good?

(Apparently parts of town are still without power and local gossip is that it will be a week before everybody has power again. Geez.)

So, what is the point of this story? Well, I learned two things:

1. Using an electric space heater to heat your tiny apartment in a country where electricity is inconsistent at best is not fun; and,
2. I really should have brought more single-player board games that do not require ambient light...or, a solar-charger.

Flash Mob

Sorry this took so long guys...busy weekend. Enjoy a video of our summer art program end-of-program flash mob while I work on another blog post!

Peace Corps, Dating, & Marriage

Admit it, you've been waiting for this post. I mean, we all hear the rumors, the gossip, the statistics - now, let me blab on about it for the next 2 to 5 minutes.

When I first started telling my friends and family I was considering Peace Corps, I couldn't believe how many people insinuated that in 2 years I would return married. It seems like everybody and their grandmother seems to think Peace Corps is some sort of marriage agency. With only 10% of Peace Corps Volunteers being married when the enter service (stat [link]), the idea that the remaining 90% of us would pair off seemed a little unrealistic.

And it probably is. I mean, don't get me wrong. I have seen a few PCVs pair off and even more marry Host Country Nationals. I have talked with RPCVs and it seems like everybody has got a story of a couple that made it. Upon further review, I think it's probably higher on the RPCV end as it makes sense RPCVs marry other RPCVs. I mean, this experience changes you and for some reason, it just seems natural to think RPCVs marry other RPCVs.

Anyway, my point being don't bank on finding that special someone in Peace Corps. First off, dating while serving is hard. The potential partner pool is small and you often don't get to spend quality alone time (unless you think crowds of 5 or more constitute being alone). Awkwardness immediately springs to life when you watch people battle stomach issues or have mini-breakdowns because they cannot figure out how to pronounce the "g" with the little hat (gggghhhrr).

Then, you throw in the living in different communities, the focus on your work, and the attention you must give to cultural norms...Well, you end up with not a great recipe for a healthy and successful relationship.

Granted, some of these things do push you together. It's easy to latch on to someone when the rest of your life is beyond your control. You may date people you never considered before and even fall hard in just a short period of time. This happens and it's hard to gain perspective when you are in the situation. I often hear PCVs talk about the "real world" when comparing PC life to life in the US. I can't say for certain, but I think a lot of us feel like this is just a wild experiment at times. Unfortunately, even with that feeling, the consequences here are just as real as any others - especially the broken hearts...

Eh. My point is that PCVs do date and marry, but the percentage is just not as high as everybody thinks it is. I mean, if I, the most perfect person on the planet, am still single after 3 years, it probably means something is wrong with the situation, not me, right?

Löki's Irrefutable Best Practices on Traveling to Foreign Countries

Peace Corps service offers all sorts of advantages to a potential candidate (see my How To [link] page on tips to making your application POP!), least of which is getting out. Getting out of the continental U.S., getting out of the standard spring break foreign country experience, getting out of the developed world.

With 48 days of annual leave (over a 2 year service), PCVs like to travel. For many, traveling home is too expensive and often not advised (blog on that later), so a week-long jaunt to another country is often the ticket.

Me? I have spent my 71 days (that is 3 years of service, baby) in Thailand, Georgia, Ukraine, and Germany. Prior to these last 3 years, I had hit up just as many countries in my 24 years of living.

Kind of lame, really.

I mean seriously. Backpacking is fantastic. You get to meet all sorts of awesome (and crazy) people, try great food, see interesting things, and really grow. If I can recommend any one thing it is to get out and experience the world (and not just the beach); however, traveling should not be taken too lightly. It can be scary, weird, unexpected. So, for those of you who are Virgos like me, I have made a list to to help you plan for those worst case scenarios. Good luck!

1. Pre-plan at least your first few nights...if you got a place to stay for the first couple days, you can start your on-the-spot planning with a local present and give yourself time to adjust to the food, time, weather, etc.
2. Hostel it up (and bring a combination lock). Couchsurfing [link] is also fun and fantastic, but definitely spend a couple of nights in a dorm room. 
3. Be friendly. That old adage, you attract more flies with honey...if very true. Being aggressive never gets you anywhere. 
4. Talk to strangers, but don't accept their candy (unless you see the bartender open it up). The whole point is to meet great people and see cool things. Be proactive in the introducing.
5. Have an emergency debit account and cash back at the ranch. I made the mistake of keeping all my money things together and well, I spent a majority of my first few days in Ukraine canceling stolen cards and crying about my camera. 
6. Don't make plans while you are imbibing, but when you inevitably do, have a contingency plan on hand. And plan on a hang-over day. 
7. Budget liberally. You will break any conservative budget you make. 
8. Bring clothes that repel absorbing spills (and smells). Handwashing clothes suck. Handwashing in a hostel sink is worse.
9. Carry a copy of your passport and stash your actual passport deep in your bag. You will thank me later.
10. Don't drink the water. And bring Imodium, Pepto, and Tums. You will need them.

Have you people seen this?

If you have not heard, Azerbaijan won Eurovision [insert - what the heck is Eurovision? - question here] this year! That means, next year, Baku will be hosting the 2012 Eurovision contest and what an event that will be.

I am kind of considering returning just to be here for that awesomeness, but that is a whole other story...

At any rate, check out this music video aimed at educating ya'all about the coolness of Baku, Azerbaijan (and increasing tourism) for Eurovision. Of course, the two singing are PCVs here...wicked sweet huh?

Social Networking

So, I am gonna get to my Ukraine trip, but before I do, I have a story to tell.

A few weeks ago, I was enjoying a leisurely Azerbaijani-style hiking trip (the kind that involves several cars, picnic blankets, and shish kebab sticks) and I suddenly remembered I had a Skype meeting with the National Peace Corps Association scheduled for 6 p.m. that evening.

Of course, there was no way I was going to convince everyone to descend the mountain so I could get near a wifi source (case in point, when we did leave, they stopped to pick berries halfway down the hill), so I booted up my handy new-used iPhone and turned on its data plan. A few seconds later, I was typing away with other PCVs halfway across the world.

Yup. We went "hiking" with a samovar too.

Technology Cometh.

Let's take a journey back in time...to 2007.

On second hand. Let's not. My hair was crazy back then.

Anyway, as previously mentioned (see this blog post [link]), when it comes to PC service, Internet is not as uncommon as one would think. Of course, when you are imagining your next 2 years of Peace Corps-ness, you cannot but help imagine yourself in a small rural location, days away from the nearest telephone. For some reason, your ability to g-chat isn't something you think about.

Of course, as Smart Phones explode around the world, so does your access to the Interwebs and Facebook. Personally, I have a MacBook Air (thanks Liana!), a new-used iPhone, wireless Internet, and a USB-powered mini fan in my house. I definitely did not start out with all this technology (...back in my day,you had to walk 30 minutes to the nearest Internet cafe), but over the last 3 years, I have watched the technology boom BOOM in Azerbaijan.

It has been rocky, learning how to regulate my Internet usage with my interest and want to effectively integrate into my community, but I think I have navigated it pretty well. It helps that nobody else has a personal computer or Smart Phone, so I only use this stuff when I am at home.

Which brings me to my point: few, if any, locals has access to the level of technology a PCV does. It is easy to think that a PCV is living in the life of luxury with their wireless Internet and their iPhones, but when your power goes off every day and keeping your Internet on requires hours of weird negotiating and palm greasing...well, it is easy to remember this is developing country. I still use a hole in the ground and I am often without running water. Most days, I have to figure out how to use a liter of milk because the power ain't on and it is so hot inside my apartment I consider cooking an egg on the window sill.

Just because a PCV has an iPhone does not mean they have the ability to charge it. It is still hard out here for a PCV (movie reference!).

Stress Management

I get stressed out pretty easily. Before I came to Peace Corps, it was pretty easy to minimize stress through daily exercise and constant convos with friends.

Of course, that was definitely before.

The minute I touched down in Azerbaijan, every stress management technique I knew went out the window...

• Exercise
• Why sure, but first you need to convince your host family that exercising is okay, then you need to figure out the shower stich (or lack of showering stich and potential for daily bucket bathing), and finally, aren't you already tired from learning another language and culture for 12 hours a day? Maybe you will have the energy to run tomorrow.
• Confiding
• Um...your best friends are legions away and you don't want to explode crazy all over your new 40+ PC friends - that ain't attractive.
• Food
• Ooo...you can definitely sneak some candy and chips, but that habit is expensive. Plus, your tummy already feels kind of weird these days...
• Cryfests

• Sob sessions have to be held off until late at night (if you can stay awake that long), otherwise, your host family will inundate you with a barrage of, "Do you miss your mom?"-style questions.
• Just bottling it up
• This works! And it is cheap, easy, and does not require daily showering. The only problem is the potential for exploding...

I have spent years trying to figure out the best stress management technique, but it still remains elusive. Of course, awhile ago, I decided that I would just use some weird bastardized mixed version of the above methods. Most days, whatever I do works. Some days, nothing seems to alleviate my stress levels and I explode. It really is just hit or miss, but I have come to expect a certain level of daily stress. It is just something you have to learn to live...

*Recently, I have started to exercise everyday (it is hot enough that cold showers feel great). This works, for now.

So you want to camp it up?

One of my newest projects is writing a basic how-to guide for organizing a summer program (read day-camp) in Azerbaijan. Of course, writing such a thing is a lot harder than I imagined, but eh. I got skillz (that's right. Skills with a z).

Anyway, I thought I would post a few basic guidelines here. For all of you out there who have got some suggestions, comment me away!

Start a year out. 
For most PCVs, at least a year is needed for summer program planning. Everything from applying for a grant to collecting special materials takes inordinate amounts of time when you are living in a developing country. My advice, be a helper at other PCVs' summer camps before deciding to do one on your own.

Major decisions.
Figure out our camp focus. Is it going to be an English camp? A sport camp? An art camp? Are you doing this thing with local help or lone wolfing it? Do you need a grant? Who will write and manage the grant? How many kids do you expect will attend? How many kids do you want to attend? Is this a kid's camp or an adult training program? Will you need PCV help? Will locals have an active role in organizing or facilitating the camp?

These questions (and many others) are really important. For the major PCV grants (SPA and PCPP), you need at least 6 to 8 months. Personally, I tried to include as many locals as possible at every step. It made the process longer, but I think it transferred more skills. I am still impressed that my counterpart wrote her own grant a few months ago for sports equipment - a skill she learned while we wrote our own camp's SPA grant.

Communicate.
This is where things get tricky. You got to tell the head dogs, the local government, your director, counterparts, kids, other PCVs - everybody and their grandma, what you plan to do. Making sure you have government approval is really important. Making sure your host org will support you (either with time off or resources) is crucial and of course, making sure PCVs know what is coming up helps them plan their summers accordingly.

PREP.
Money is in and it is time to buy. Keep detailed records of money and receipts (this will save you a lot of head aches on the final grant reporting side). Make sure you inventory your supplies and have enough for everything. Will there be a counterpart training? Print the hand-outs and make sure you have every contingency planned for (such as someone not showing up).

Sending out the summons.
Hopefully, by this point you have potential campees, but do you have PCVs? Get firm commitments and communicate your community and house rules. Are shorts allowed? What about smoking in public? Should people pitch in for food, toilet paper, electricity (for the constant use of your fan)? Are PCVs expected for the whole week or just part? Be clear and stick to your guns. The goal is for this to be less of a headache for you, not more.

CAMP
Remember to eat and drink lots of liquids.

Clean up.
Always follow that Girl Scout motto and leave a place better than you found it. Debrief counterparts and make sure the lessons you were hoping to transmit were actually transmitted. Write up your final grant report. Post pictures online and thank donors. Get your house right (after lots of guests...this can be touch).

Plan for next year???

Fan Mail

As I started to write this post, I realized that every sentence sounded like a complaint, so let me throw some stuff out there:

1. I am extremely grateful and humbled by the amount of care packages I receive.
2. I love emails and even some of the forwards my dad sends - even if I have no idea why he sent them to me.
3. I am a processor, so I need that constant contact. I need it.

With that being said, mail is a weird thing for a PCV. At first, you get quite a lot of it. Boxes from friends and family arrive with haste. Handwritten letters are not uncommon; and that run-on email from your bestie reminds you of all the stuff you are missing at home.

Unfortunately, over time, these things decrease in frequency. This is completely natural. After your first year of care packages, your stockpile of awesome loot is pretty high. You know that your shared experiences with your friends and fam remain the mainstay of your identity, but they are replaced by crazy "only-in-Peace-Corps" stories that nobody but other PCVs understand. You simply start to lose contact.

This happens. It has to happen. Without the slow integration of you into your host community, you would never be able to operate effectively in your host country. You have to lose some (if not most) contact with home so that you can put that energy and focus into your service.

Anyway, the other day I got a random post card in the mail from a reader of my blog. I was surprised and a little freaked out that somebody other than my dad, mom, and sister read this blog. The card now sits on my shelf, next to my Azerbaijani wedding pictures. It reminded me that even though the letter and emails have reduced in number, people are still out there who care deeply about what I am doing.

Welcome to the World of Waxing (Men, you can skip this installment)

Welcome girls to Löki's World of Hair Removal.

I know, I know. You may ask yourself, "Why the heck is Löki writing about this?" and I do not have an answer, so I am going to skip that question.

Removing hair in Peace Corps is...expensive.

Yes, I said it. Expensive. Before we even get to the hauling of water, the heating of water, the standing in the tub of heated water, let's talk about the purchasing of the razor and shave gel. After an extensive search, I have just one question:

Where in the world can I find non-Axe shave gel in Azerbaijan????? I do not want to smell like a adolescent boy all day.

With no answer in sight, I threw a mini-fit. In this mini-fit rage, I decided to internet research hair removal methodologies and lo and behold, I found this:

Amy's Sugar Waxing Videos [link]

After a few rounds of experimenting, I found I like using strips best, but hey. To each their own.

At any rate, this method worked, it was low (low) in pain, and I only have to do it once or twice a month. Cheap, easy, and I do not smell like a 21 year old Azerbaijani boy. Score.

Found the Cord!

In Bilasuvar

Bilasuvar again!

Packing for Americastan.

Making plov!

On our way to Lekit (again)!

Relief - A not so pocket-sized on-the-spot health guide

A lot of PCVs ask me about home/natural/NOW home remedies for common health problems. I made a Google doc. It is a work in progress. Check it out.*

Relief is online [link]

However, for those of you who need a sneak peak...here is an excerpt from the "Prevention" section...

Yogurt

A key ingredient in many home remedies, having a good stash of yogurt keeps you healthy. It can also keep your body balanced. Enjoy a cup for breakfast. Snack on some garlic yogurt and bread instead of teacakes. Use it as a douche...wait...too early to talk about that.

Homemade Yogurt

3 & 1/2 cups milk

1/4 to 1/2 cup powdered milk

Plain live culture yogurt (regular store-bought yogurt should be fine here)

Prepare several half liter or liter jars by washing thoroughly (with hot water), rinsing and setting aside to air dry. Prepare lids by washing thoroughly (with hot water), rinsing and pouring boiling water over top. Set everything aside until ready to use.

In a large pot, bring milk to a boil. You gots to watch this as it can boil over, especially if you stir it. Leave it alone, yo.

Remove from the stove and allow to cool (again, do not touch it). After a couple of minutes, insert a thermometer. When the milk is at about 110 degrees F (43.3 degrees C) or lukewarm, add in a couple heaping Tablespoons of live culture yogurt. Stir to combine.

If any skin has formed on the top of the milk, remove.

Pour into prepared yogurt containers and place in a warm area. The goal is to keep the milk lukewarm for 6 to 8 hours, undisturbed. Wrap in some towels, place at a respectable distance from your wood stove, anything as long as it is warm.

After 8 hours check to see if the yogurt has set. If it has not set sufficiently by hour 10. something went wrong. You can still use the milk to cook with (sort of buttermilky), but you cannot attempt another yogurt experiment with this batch.

If it has set, place in a cold place (the refrigerator) and enjoy! I use homemade jam to sweeten mine up!

*I am not a doctor...so, take everything I say and write with a grain of salt and possibly a real Doctor's advice.

Top 10 Ways to Blow a Good Hour (or Two)

1. Read the entire Hunger Games trilogy [link];
2. Listen to HowStuffWorks.com podcasts [link];
3. Finish off a chapter of the Odyssey audiobook;
4. Read the Huffington Post online [link];
5. Read People.com [link];
6. Bake peanut butter chocolate chip cookies;
7. Get lost at Etsy [link];
8. Hand wash your laundry;
9. Hand wash your sheets; or,
10. Clean your apartment (and dust for cockroaches).

Novruz Novruz Novruz

A crappy week.

Sorry guys. I know I have been a little out of it the last week or so and I would love to tell you what has been going on, but...

That can't happen.

Unfortunately, there are often times as a PCV that

1. You have no idea what is making you so sad; and/ or,
2. You can't describe what it is to people back at home; and/or
3. It is inappropriate for you to blog/ email / or write about it.

Of course, being PCV is a strain. Emotionally, it is a roller coaster of craziness. Everything is maximized. I find myself crying at YouTube videos of kittens. I stopped watching anything above a PG-13 rating eons ago because I can't handle the content. I gave up American television for Lent because I found myself projecting onto the characters and was genuinely upset that Finn and Rachel just won't stay together.

Yup. That happened.

And it seems silly. You want to call your bestie and tell them that your dang refrigerator has broken for the THIRD freaking time, but that means nothing to them. They have no idea what it means to you to have your kitchen a mess, not being unable to cook because all your counter space is currently occupied with your dozens of cooking sauces, and the refrigerator repair guy telling you to wait until after the upcoming 10 day spring break.

And then, some things are just inappropriate to blog about. Unfortunately, blog readers get a rather washed down, sanitary version of PC life.

So, it has been a crappy week. My next blog post will be about what I do when I have a crappy week, but for right now, I am going to be miserable. Sometimes, it is good to own the feelings and just ride it out.